"Bhutan, the Cloud Kingdom"
Gangtey Monastery
High on the eastern shoulders of the tallest mountains in the world - The Himalayas - sits a tiny kingdom known as Bhutan. Its area is equal to that of Vermont and New Hampshire combined, or one third that of Florida - 18,000 square miles. Its lowest valley floor is 2,200 feet above sea level and its one road often disappears into the clouds at 14,000 feet or more.
Bhutan is a landlocked nation with India on three sides, while Tibet (China) lies to the north. Early Buddhist monks from India and Tibet referred to this mountainous region as Bhotanta "the realm at the frontiers at Tibet". Followers of one Buddhist sect, the Drukpa, gave it another name, Druk Yul or "Land of the Peaceful Thunder Dragon". In the mountains, thunderstorms are common. The Drukpa people imagined that the sound of thunder was the voice of the dragon.
Bhutan broke away from Tibet in the 8th century and disappeared into the mists of her mountains. For eleven centuries it was closed to outsiders and nearly forgotten by the rest of the world. Her only visitors during this time were occasional monks escaping the societal pressures of more "civilized" countries.
Today, Bhutan is the last independent Himalayan Buddhist Kingdom. Neighboring Sikkim was absorbed by India and Mustang became part of Nepal. Noting the crushing takeover in 1959 of Tibet by China, the present king's grandfather, King Jigme Dorji, decided to end his country's policy of isolationism and ally it more closely with English-speaking India. Bhutan still has no diplomatic ties with China.
Takin
In 1960, Bhutan embarked on a course of economic and social development. Its first road was begun in 1961 and tourists began trickling into the country in 1974. Today Bhutan hosts over twelve thousand visitors a year.
In 1972 King Jigme Dorji died suddenly at the age of 44! His son, Jigme Singye Wangchuck, succeeded him at the tender age of sixteen. Coronated at eighteen, the young king decided to lead his country firmly but carefully into the modern world.
The new king had benefited from a formal education in Bhutan, India, and the US. Aware of the environmental problems brought on by uncontrolled tourism, and deforestation in nearby Nepal, he strongly urged his democratically-elected National Assembly to pay close attention to how logging, farming and hydroelectric enterprises affected the land.
Today, over 72% of Bhutan is still forested while wildlife sanctuaries and national parks fully protect 25% of the country. These natural havens are home to some of the world's most spectacular creatures such as blackneck cranes, golden langurs, tigers, takins, blue sheep and gorals.
Golden Langur
Only 16% of Bhutan's land is arable. Rice paddies cover the valley floors and some of the mountain slopes. Subsistence farming sustains 80% of the population of 600,000. Bhutanese people favor a dish of hot chilies and cheese over rice, but visitors are treated to chicken/beef/pork and fish stews over rice, along with an assortment of vegetables and mushroom dishes. Desserts are usually fruits - apples and pears.
The literacy rate has increased from 28% in 1984 to 60% today and is growing rapidly. All schools teach both in English and the native language - Dzongkha, a Tibetan dialect.
Buddhism and its reverence for all living things (hunting is not permitted) permeates every facet of Bhutanese life. Colorful prayer flags, shrines called Chortens, and giant monastery fortresses known as Dzongs, dot the landscape. Red-robed monks are seen everywhere and each home has its own altar room.
The Land of the Peaceful Thunder Dragon is also occasionally referred to as the last Shangri-la. The air is free of pollution, crime is nearly nonexistent and smiles greet you everywhere, but electric lights (1994), television (1999) and cell phones (2003) will most assuredly end the isolated innocence that so many Bhutanese and harried visitors cherish. Hopefully Bhutan's remoteness and enlightened government will keep that change to a minimum. They will if they adhere steadfastly to king Jigme Singye Wangchuck's mantra. Rather than worry about the Gross National Product, he would much rather promote what he calls "The Gross National Happiness".